How to Install Dual Dashcam (Front & Rear): Step-by-Step

Why Install a Dual Dashcam System?

Installing a dual dashcam system might seem intimidating at first, but with the right preparation and guidance, it's a highly achievable DIY project that takes 2-4 hours from start to finish. A front and rear dashcam setup provides comprehensive protection for your vehicle, documenting everything that happens on the road and behind you. Whether you're dealing with insurance claims, protecting against hit-and-runs, or simply maintaining a detailed record of your drives, a dual dashcam system is one of the smartest investments you can make for your vehicle.

This comprehensive guide walks you through every step of the installation process, from selecting the right tools and planning your cable route to powering your system and fine-tuning camera angles for optimal coverage. We'll cover both hardwired rear cameras and wireless options, discuss various power solutions, and share professional tricks for hiding cables and achieving a clean, factory-like installation. By the end of this guide, you'll have the confidence and knowledge to install a dual dashcam system that looks professionally installed while being completely DIY.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before you start the installation process, gather all necessary tools and materials. Having everything ready prevents mid-installation trips to the hardware store and ensures a smooth workflow. For tools, you'll need a trim removal tool set (plastic pry tools or a panel removal kit) to safely remove interior trim without damage. A 12V test light or multimeter helps identify power sources and wire polarity. A wire stripper and crimper are essential for making clean electrical connections, and a soldering iron with solder provides the most reliable connections for permanent installations. You'll also want a drill with various bits for creating cable routing holes, a flashlight or headlamp for seeing under the dashboard, and a wire fish tape or coat hanger for threading cables through tight spaces. A heat gun helps with removing adhesive trim pieces, while masking tape is invaluable for protecting your vehicle's interior.

For materials, you'll need appropriate gauges of electrical wire (typically 18-gauge for rear camera power, 14-gauge for main power), wire connectors and butt connectors for secure connections, and a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse if hardwiring to your battery. Cable grommet kits protect wires passing through firewall holes, while adhesive cable clips keep wires neat and organized. Consider purchasing a dash cam power cable extension if the stock cable isn't long enough, heat shrink tubing for protecting connections, and electrical tape for securing cable runs. For a wireless rear camera, you'll need the dedicated wireless receiver module, while hardwired systems require a rear camera cable that can extend 20-40 feet depending on your vehicle length. Finally, gather some general-purpose automotive trim adhesive for securing cable clips and any loose panels you remove during installation.

Planning Your Cable Route: The Foundation of Clean Installation

The difference between a professional-looking installation and an amateur one comes down to cable routing. Before you start removing trim or drilling holes, take time to plan exactly where your cables will run. Open your vehicle doors and closely examine the interior. Most vehicles have a natural channel along the top edge of the door frame where the headliner meets the roof—this is your primary routing path for reaching the rear of your vehicle. In the front, you'll run the power cable from your dashcam down the A-pillar (the pillar between the windshield and front door) to the floor, then under the carpet or along the baseboards to your chosen power source.

For rear camera cable routing, you have several options depending on your vehicle type. In sedans, the most common path runs along the headliner through the interior roof channel, then down the C-pillar (the pillar behind the rear door) to the rear of the vehicle. In SUVs and hatchbacks, you might prefer running cables through the roof channel all the way to the back. The key is avoiding any moving parts, hot surfaces, sharp edges, and areas where doors or windows could pinch the cable. Take photos of your planned route and mark it mentally. Some installers use masking tape to outline the path before removal, which helps prevent mistakes.

When running cables through trim, always unplug your vehicle's battery first to avoid accidental short circuits. Disconnect the negative terminal and wait 15 minutes to ensure all power is drained. Next, identify which trim pieces you need to remove to access your routing path. For the dashboard, the column cover and lower steering column trim usually come off first. Use your plastic trim removal tools to pry gently at the edges, working your way around the piece until it releases from clips. Take photos before removing any trim so you remember how it goes back. The A-pillar trim is secured with several clips—pop them gently from bottom to top. The headliner can be removed partially or navigated around depending on your cable routing choice. Most installations avoid full headliner removal by feeding cables carefully along the existing channel between the roof and headliner.

For routing along the headliner, use your fish tape to create a path for the camera cable. Feed it slowly, being careful not to snag on anything. If you encounter resistance, stop and investigate rather than forcing the cable. The plastic roof channel is slippery enough that most cables slide through with minimal effort if given a straight path. Where cables exit the headliner channel to go down pillars, drill small holes through the trim piece and use grommets to protect the wire. Always leave some slack in your cable—about 6 inches coiled near connection points—so you have room to work if you need to disconnect or reconnect later.

Front Camera Installation: Positioning and Mounting

Your front dashcam is the most critical component because it captures whatever happens directly in front of your vehicle. Proper positioning ensures maximum coverage while remaining inconspicuous. The ideal mounting location is directly behind the rearview mirror, centered on the windshield. This position is typically within your field of vision when you look at the road ahead, but slight reflections on the windshield won't significantly affect footage quality. Some vehicles with panoramic sunroofs have slightly limited mounting options—in these cases, shift the camera slightly to one side rather than mounting it lower on the dashboard where it becomes more visible.

Before permanently mounting your dashcam, attach it loosely and test the angle. Adjust the camera until you capture a 45-degree view of the road and sky—roughly equal amounts of both. The horizon should be level, not tilted or pointing too high into the sky. Many accidents happen when a driver needs to prove what happened, and poorly angled footage is worthless in court. Some modern dashcams include a level indicator in their display menu, which makes this adjustment much easier. Once you're satisfied with the angle, you can proceed with permanent mounting.

Most dashcams use adhesive suction cup mounts or 3M dual-lock adhesive pads. For suction cups, ensure the windshield is clean and completely dry. Use rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth to remove any dust, dirt, or residue. Press the suction cup firmly onto the windshield and tighten the locking ring until snug. For adhesive mounting, clean the windshield area thoroughly, let it dry completely, then apply the adhesive pad to the back of your mounting bracket. Press firmly and let the adhesive set for 24 hours before using the camera. The adhesive method is generally more secure for long-term use, especially in hot climates where suction cups can lose grip.

Once your camera is mounted, route the power cable carefully. In most vehicles, the cable runs down the passenger side of the windshield, along the A-pillar, and toward your chosen power source. Feed the cable behind the trim pieces using your plastic pry tools to create gaps. The cable should be completely hidden—none of it should be visible from outside the vehicle or be obvious when looking inside. Use adhesive cable clips every 12-18 inches to keep the cable pressed against the trim and prevent it from flopping around as you drive. Pay special attention to areas around the steering wheel, where the cable might rub against moving parts. When your cable reaches the power source, you'll have choices for connection, which we'll cover in detail in the power options section.

Rear Camera Installation: Positioning and Mounting Options

Rear camera placement depends on your vehicle type and the specific camera model. You have three primary options: rear window mounting, interior headliner mounting near the rear, and license plate area mounting. Each has advantages and disadvantages worth considering before installation.

Rear window mounting is the most common choice for sedans and many SUVs. Position the camera on the inside of the rear window, centered and high enough to see over rear headrests. This placement provides the widest field of view and captures activity behind your vehicle clearly. The camera should be mounted as flush as possible against the window to minimize interior visibility. Use the same mounting method as your front camera—either suction cup or adhesive pad. Suction cups work well for rear windows since they're smoother and larger than windshields, providing excellent grip. If you choose an adhesive mount, ensure you're mounting to clean glass, and remember that removing it later might leave adhesive residue you'll need to clean.

Interior headliner mounting near the rear is an excellent option if you want complete concealment. Remove the rear section of your headliner or the rear light assembly trim and mount the camera pointing toward the rear window. This method completely hides the camera but may reduce image quality slightly due to shooting through glass. Some vehicles have rear headliner vents or removable trim sections that are perfect for this mounting method. The advantage is invisibility—potential thieves have no idea they're being recorded.

License plate area mounting works well for capturing vehicles behind you but provides a different angle than window mounting. This option is popular for commercial vehicles and trucks. The camera lens faces forward-and-down from the license plate area, capturing the road behind and any vehicles following. However, this mounting point makes the camera visible to others, and road debris can accumulate on the lens more quickly.

Once you've chosen your mounting location, carefully plan your cable route from the front camera location to the rear. In most vehicles, the cable runs along the roof channel behind the headliner, down one side pillar, along the interior side trim to the rear camera location. When running cables through the headliner, work patiently and carefully. The cable must navigate around the roof supports without becoming pinched or kinked. A fish tape makes this process much easier—thread the fish tape first, attach the camera cable to it, then gently pull both back through the channel simultaneously.

Where the cable exits the roof channel to go down the rear pillar, drill a small hole and install a grommet to protect the wire from sharp edges. The cable then runs down the rear pillar trim (often called the C-pillar or D-pillar depending on vehicle type) toward the rear window. In sedans with trunk access, the cable enters the trunk area where the rear camera connects. In SUVs or hatchbacks with cargo area access, you may be able to route the cable more directly to the rear. Throughout the entire run, secure the cable with adhesive clips every 12-18 inches to prevent movement and vibration noise while driving.

Running Rear Camera Cable: Hardwired vs. Wireless Solutions

Once you've planned your rear camera location and cable route, you need to decide between hardwired and wireless rear cameras. Each option has distinct advantages, and your choice significantly impacts your installation complexity.

Hardwired rear cameras use a physical cable running from your front dashcam unit to the rear camera. This cable contains both video signal and power lines, typically ranging from 20-40 feet depending on your vehicle length. The main advantage of hardwired systems is reliability—there's no wireless interference, no battery to drain, and the connection is permanent and secure. The disadvantage is that running a long cable through your vehicle requires more work and careful routing. When installing a hardwired rear camera cable, start at the front unit and trace your planned route carefully. The cable should run hidden behind all trim pieces, through the headliner channel, and down the appropriate pillar to the rear camera.

For the actual cable pulling process, use a fish tape or straightened coat hanger to create a path. Start from the front, feed the fish tape along your planned route, and once it reaches the rear location, attach the rear camera cable to the fish tape. Pull slowly and steadily, watching for any snags or resistance. If the cable catches, stop immediately and investigate. Forcing a stuck cable can damage both the cable and interior trim. In some cases, you may need to remove more trim than anticipated to free a caught cable. Work patiently—the actual pulling typically takes 15-30 minutes depending on your vehicle's complexity.

Wireless rear cameras eliminate the long cable routing challenge but introduce different considerations. These systems use a dedicated wireless transmitter in the rear camera and a receiver connected to your front dashcam unit. Installation is significantly simpler—you mount the rear camera, secure its power cable (usually just 3-5 feet, running from the rear camera to your vehicle's power source), and install the receiver module in your front unit. The main advantages are easy installation and clean appearance with minimal hidden cables. The disadvantages are potential wireless interference in busy urban environments, battery drain if the rear camera is battery-powered rather than hardwired, and slightly lower video quality due to wireless compression.

Wireless systems are ideal if you're hesitant about extensive cable routing or if your vehicle's interior structure makes hardwiring difficult. Hardwired systems are better for maximum reliability and if you want a completely integrated solution with synchronized video from both cameras. Many newer dual dashcam systems offer hardwired configurations as standard because they provide superior performance.

When running a hardwired rear camera cable, connect the video and power lines at the rear camera according to your dashcam manual's specifications. The positive wire (typically red) connects to 12V power, while the ground wire (typically black) connects to any unpainted metal surface on your vehicle for proper grounding. Some installations run ground back to the front unit rather than grounding locally at the rear—consult your manual for recommendations. Secure all connections with crimp connectors and heat shrink tubing for a professional, weatherproof result. In trunk or cargo areas, use cable clips to keep everything organized and prevent loose cables from moving around when braking or accelerating.

Power Options: Cigarette Adapter, Hardwiring, and OBD Port Solutions

After your cameras are mounted and cables are routed, the next critical step is powering your dashcam system. You have three primary options, each with different complexity levels, cleanliness of installation, and reliability factors.

The simplest option is using a 12V cigarette lighter adapter (also called a 12V power outlet adapter). These plug into your vehicle's power outlet and provide 12V power through a cable that runs to your dashcam. The advantages are obvious—no tools needed, no electrical knowledge required, and you can unplug the system whenever you want. The main disadvantages are that the cable is visible inside your vehicle, hanging from the dashboard to your camera, and the power outlet is occupied so you can't use it for other accessories. This method works well for temporary installations or if you don't mind the visible cable. To use this method, route your dashcam power cable down the A-pillar along with your video cable, and plug the adapter into the nearest 12V outlet.

Hardwiring directly to your vehicle's battery is the most professional and permanent solution. This method involves routing the power cable through your firewall (the barrier between your engine and interior), connecting to your battery's positive and negative terminals through a fuse holder for safety. The advantages are substantial—no visible cables inside your cabin, your dashcam can remain powered indefinitely (useful for parking mode recording), and you achieve a factory-like installation. The disadvantages are that hardwiring requires electrical knowledge and tools, involves working near your battery (potential shock hazard), and permanent installation makes removal more difficult.

To hardwire your dashcam, locate where your battery is mounted and identify the positive and negative terminals. Run your power cable from your front dashcam unit down through the engine bay side of your firewall using a pre-drilled hole or by drilling one and installing a grommet. In the engine bay, connect the positive cable to the battery positive terminal through a fuse holder containing a 10-amp fuse—the fuse protects your entire system from electrical fires. The ground wire connects either to the battery negative terminal or to any unpainted metal surface on the engine block or chassis. Use ring terminals crimped onto the wire ends and bolt them securely to the battery terminals or ground point. Double-check all connections before reconnecting your battery and starting the vehicle.

The third option is using your vehicle's OBD-II port (the diagnostic port under the steering column on most vehicles made after 1996). Many modern dashcams offer OBD-II power adapters that draw 12V power from this port. The advantages are that routing is minimal and clean—the adapter plugs in and provides power without running long cables. The disadvantages are that you'll have a visible adapter and cable near your steering column, some vehicles may show error messages or warning lights if they detect the dashcam drawing power, and if the dashcam malfunctions, it could potentially affect your vehicle's computer. This method is good for temporary installations or if you're uncomfortable with hardwiring.

Regardless of which power method you choose, always include proper protection. Use fuses rated for your dashcam's amperage draw (typically 10 amps for dual systems), and use crimped connectors rather than twist-on connectors for security. If hardwiring, use 14-gauge wire for the main power run and 18-gauge for the rear camera circuit. Protect all exposed connections with heat shrink tubing and secure loose wires with clips every 12-18 inches. Test your system before reassembling all trim to ensure everything powers on correctly and records video properly.

Testing, Adjustment, and Final Assembly

Before you reassemble all your vehicle's interior trim and declare the installation complete, thorough testing ensures everything works perfectly. Connect your battery and power on your dashcam system. Check that both front and rear cameras power on successfully, and verify that your recording indicators light up, confirming that both cameras are actually recording. Most dashcams show live video on a small display or through a connected smartphone app—use this to verify image quality and positioning.

With your vehicle stationary, observe the video feed from both cameras. The front camera should show a level horizon with approximately 45 degrees of road and 45 degrees of sky visible. Check that the windshield wipers, steering wheel, and dashboard don't obstruct the view. Adjust the mounting angle if needed—you should be able to see several car lengths ahead on the road. For the rear camera, verify that it captures a clear view behind your vehicle without excessive glare from brake lights or rear reflectors. The horizon should again be level. Check that the rear camera has a wide field of view covering multiple lanes behind you.

Take a short test drive in a safe location and review the footage. Make sure audio levels are appropriate (especially for wind noise if using an external microphone), that timestamp information is clearly visible, and that video quality meets your expectations. Check both cameras for any flickering, strange colors, or anomalies that might indicate connection issues. At various points during your drive—straight roads, turns, acceleration, and braking—verify that both cameras capture stable, clear footage. If any problems appear, return home and investigate before continuing.

Once testing is complete and everything works properly, you can begin reassembling your interior trim. Start with the pieces you removed last (typically at the rear) and work your way forward. Reattach the C-pillar trim carefully, pressing it firmly onto its clips until you hear distinct clicks. Install the rear trim pieces you removed for cable routing. In the front, reattach the A-pillar trim and any dashboard components you removed. As you reinstall trim, ensure no cables are pinched or caught—you may need to manipulate cables slightly to achieve proper trim fitting.

Before fully reassembling everything, do one final check of your cable routing. Verify that no cables are visible from inside the vehicle or from outside. Check that all cables are secured with clips and aren't loose or moving around inside the interior. Press firmly on any adhesive trim pieces to ensure they're properly secured. Once you're satisfied with the installation, reconnect your battery. Turn on the dashcam one final time to verify everything still works after reassembly. Take another brief test drive to confirm both cameras are recording properly and that you haven't accidentally disconnected anything.

If you hardwired your power, check that your vehicle starts normally and that no warning lights appear on your dashboard. If warning lights do appear, this usually indicates an electrical issue—disconnect your dashcam from the battery immediately and consult your vehicle's manual or a professional before reconnecting. Most properly installed dashcams produce no warning lights. Finally, set up parking mode if your dashcam supports it. This feature allows continuous recording or motion-detection recording even when your vehicle is parked, providing maximum protection against hit-and-runs or vandalism. Consult your dashcam's manual for setup instructions specific to your model.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Learning from others' mistakes can save you significant time and frustration during your installation. Here are the most common errors people make when installing dual dashcam systems.

Failing to disconnect the battery before beginning electrical work is dangerous and can cause short circuits or fires. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 15 minutes before starting any installation work. This simple step prevents accidental shorts and gives you time to verify all power is discharged. Similarly, many people reconnect the battery before fully testing their system. Test everything thoroughly while the battery is disconnected or while you're working—it's much easier to fix problems before reassembling trim.

Poor cable routing creates visible, unsightly installations and often leads to cable damage. People frequently run cables along the outside of trim pieces instead of hiding them behind panels, or they use too few cable clips, allowing cables to hang loosely and vibrate. Take your time routing cables properly behind all trim pieces. Use adhesive clips every 12-18 inches and ensure no cable is visible from inside or outside your vehicle. A properly routed cable installation is completely invisible and looks professional.

Incorrect camera angle is surprisingly common and ruins otherwise good installations. People often mount cameras too high (capturing sky instead of road), too low (capturing dashboard instead of traffic), or tilted (making the horizon crooked). Take extra time adjusting your camera angle before permanent mounting. The front camera should show equal amounts of road and sky with a level horizon. The rear camera should capture the area directly behind your vehicle without excessive upward or downward tilt.

Using inadequate power connections causes intermittent recording failures and potential electrical fires. Twist-on connectors vibrate loose and cause poor connections. Always use crimped connectors for permanent, secure electrical connections. Use appropriately sized fuses that match your dashcam's amperage draw—oversized fuses won't protect your system, while undersized fuses will blow constantly. If you're unsure about electrical connections, consult your dashcam's manual or contact the manufacturer.

Forcing cables through tight spaces creates pinched, damaged wires that fail intermittently. Always use a fish tape to guide cables through channels and pillars. If you encounter resistance, investigate rather than forcing—the cable might be caught on something you need to move out of the way. Patience during cable routing saves hours of troubleshooting later.

Skipping the test drive before final reassembly means discovering problems only after you've reassembled all your trim, making fixes significantly more difficult. Always test your system thoroughly with the vehicle running and take a short test drive before reassembling anything. This catches problems while everything is still accessible.

Neglecting to secure loose trim after removal can result in rattling noises while driving. When you remove trim pieces, take photos showing how they attach. Some clips are obvious, but others are hidden. Ensure every piece of trim is fully seated on all its clips before considering it done. Press firmly around the edges to hear audible clicks confirming proper attachment.

Using the wrong gauge wire for hardwiring installations creates fire hazards. The main power run from your battery should use 14-gauge wire, which safely handles the current draws of dual dashcams. Thinner wire (18-gauge) can overheat and cause fires. Thicker wire (10-gauge) is overkill for dashcams but isn't harmful. Consult your dashcam manual for recommended wire gauge specifications.

Finally, many people install their dashcams and never check them again, missing opportunities to clean lenses, update firmware, or recover important footage. Set a reminder to check your dashcam monthly—clean both lenses, verify recording is functioning, and check your memory card for adequate remaining space. Modern dashcams often have automatic loop recording that overwrites old footage, but a full memory card can cause unexpected failures.